EDIT: autocad file
http://www.mediafire.com/?8cluwi4b3nh0dwf and picture
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This is not an interest check or group buy, that will happen later.
Some people might have seen that before I was trying to make a metal case for a Filco, but Vortex recently showed off a CNC'd one that looks better than what I could do. A lot of people were kind of dubious about the poker/pure case they had though so I thought I'd do that instead.
I finally managed to catch a time where my friend and I can get together to go to the metalworking shop his dad owns and it's going to be this Thursday, so I need to get things finalized for then.
I had already taken measurements for the Poker a long time ago but I'm going to go over them again. Some things for your consideration that I want feedback on though are:
1) Thickness of the casing. I was thinking about 1/8" or 3/16".
2) Should I even cut out a hole for the DIP switch access? Most people only touch it once, and then not having the hole in the bottom might be nicer. If you did need to change them you could remove the PCB for a second to switch it, which just involves removing 5 screws and is easy to do for something that you don't have to do often.
3) Instead of having cylinders sticking up from the bottom of the case to accept the screws, should I just cut threaded holes into the case itself? Then the PCB could sit on the bottom of the case (with a thin cushion of some fabric) and would be sturdier, since some people talk about how the Poker's PCB flexes.
4) Maybe have a mirrored top piece that could be hinged to act as a cover? Would need some latch on the front to close it as well.
5) How high up do you want the size of the case to come relative to the keys? Just to the bottom edge of the key?
Any other feedback would be appreciated! If someone is particularly good with autoCAD and wants to draw it up once I get all the dimensions that would be good too. I did it myself with the Filco blueprints but it took me forever because I'm an autoCAD noob.
