Got a price quote today, check out post #230 here:
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?28132-VIDEO-and-PICS-Aluminum-poker-cases&p=547909&viewfull=1#post547909---------------------------
EDIT: added pictures over here
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?28132-Interest-check-Poker-aluminum-or-stainless-steel-cases&p=540275&viewfull=1#post540275It weighs 1 pound, 14 ounces without the keyboard inside it.
[video=youtube;CNSjdYfjhbk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CNSjdYfjhbk[/video][video=youtube;47p43RY9rNc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47p43RY9rNc[/video]
Steel is no longer an option unfortunately.
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This is a follow up to this thread:
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?27565-feedback-Poker-metal-case-constructionIt would probably be a good idea to read through that quick to get an idea of what this is about if you don't already know.
I do not have an actual prototype to show you as I can't pay to just make one then pay to make X more later without having to pay setup fees twice. What they do instead is they have something called a plotter which basically makes a 3D imitation of it in paper to make sure that everything fits alright and if that paper prototype is okay then I tell them how many I want and they'll put it into production. They'll be making this paper prototype sometime next week and assuming it's alright, they give me some price quotes.
I'm not sure exactly what the price is yet, but since I won't have an actual prototype to show I imagine nobody would want to pay up front, so I'm going to be paying for it all myself and then worrying about selling them once they are made. Because of this, I don't want to buy too many, so I mostly just need to figure out a ballpark for how many people are interested. The more orders there are, the cheaper things will be of course.
If you are interested in one of these, please POST here (don't PM me) saying how many you would want, whether you want it in aluminum or stainless steel, and maybe something like the highest price you would actually be interested in following through with the order is.So for example, if you were interested in one in aluminum but only if it was less than $100, then just post:
1x aluminum
$100 max
So if you posted that and then the actual price came out to be $115, I wouldn't count your interest when figuring out how many I want to buy. I honestly don't know what the cost is going to be though, I'm thinking anywhere between $50 and $125. The materials are cheap, but it's basically the labor we are paying for. If they are much higher or much lower than what I expected or if there is anything significantly odd with how the case will turn out, then I'll come back and post some info again before I make any decisions. I won't use your highest price to try to con the most money out of you possible. I pretty much plan to just charge what the actual cost comes out to.
The metal will be 3/16" thick. Note that if you want it in stainless steel that it will be much heavier than aluminum (which may or may not be a good thing based on your personal opinion). This is the basic blueprints which I gave to them where the plan was to have the PCB rest almost directly against the bottom of the metal case instead of having the PCB sit on a few cylinders that accept the screws like the normal case does. This would reduce PCB flex that some people complain about with the poker. To do this though, several insets would have to have been cut into the metal itself which apparently wouldn't be that easy with what they have available (not a CNC machine), but what the person I had talked with came up with instead is that there would be a layer of plastic between the PCB and the bottom of the case where these insets would be cut in and holes for the screws tapped. So it would be PCB on top of some plastic on top of the metal case.
The walls of the case would come up to the bottom lip of the keycaps themselves (for those who didn't like the exposed sides of the case that Vortex was showing off). There will NOT be a hole cut out to access the DIP switches. The reason for this is that most people only need to set the dip switches once and then will never touch them again so it's nicer and easier to just have a smooth metal bottom. I don't think there's much else to say, the case is basically just a metal box without a top, but if you have any questions feel free to ask them. It may also be good to read up on the original thread.
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This is the company that will be making it just in case anybody is curious:
http://www.albertdavidson.com/english.htmlMy friend is the son of the guy who owns and runs the company.
